Directions for typical Motorcycle LIGHT BAR Wiring

  Light Bar Lamps are mostly left on like your headlight.

  To ideally hook up a Light Bar, Locate one of the following:

• A 12 volt Accessory Wire that has voltage when the key is on.
   1)  You can use this wire with or without a switch to trigger a relay (coil 86), (see typical relay wiring below).  Our Universal Wiring and Relay Kits for Controlling Your Auxiliary Lights will have everything you need included in the kit.
   2)  You may also power the lights using this power source with one of our Handlebar Mounted Switch's from National Cycle, (very popular when a switch is desired for this application).
   
• Finding a Speedometer Lamp wire or even sometimes a Running Light Lamp wire from the turn signals is another option. 
  You can use this to trigger your relay, allowing lights to be on all of the time.  For low wattage lamps (35 watts or less) you can sometimes power directly from this source and even use the Handlebar Mounted Switch to turn them on and off if desired.  If powering from a Speedometer or Running Lamp source then you will need to just increase the fuse powering that circuit by 5 amp.  If originally a 10 amp fuse, then just bump up to a 15 amp fuse instead.
   
• On some of the newer bikes there are unused plugs in the headlight shell that are designed for an OEM light bar to plug into.  These circuits are already fused and there will be power there all of the time when the key is turned on.  If this is the case, you only have to break into those wires and power your lights directly from those wires.  If you want to be able to turn the lights off and on, you can also run the hot lead through a Handlebar Mounted Switch, .
   
• A headlight  wire inside your headlight housing that is not powered when you are starting the bike. 
  1)  You can use this wire with a single pole single throw switch, (two terminal switch) - to your relay trigger hot (86).  Since this wire is un-powered when the starter button is pushed, your driving lamps will go out with the headlight to reduce stress on your battery during starting.   Using this method your Driving Lights will only work when you have either your dim or bright light on.  Using this method you are only powering up the relay coil not the lights from the headlight circuit.  You will need to use an Aux. circuit to power the relay contacts (which are feeding your Aux. lights).
  2)  We usually do not recommend powering the aux lights in parallel with your headlight wiring, on a lot of bikes your headlight will dim if using the same (wire) power source for aux lights and headlight.

Using a Relay is the preferable method:

• Different light bars may vary from this configuration.  Here you can see how easy it is to trigger a relay by either switching the trigger terminal 86 or the ground terminal 85.  The Standard Lights & Light Bars  & most National Cycle Bars and Show Chrome Bars we sell are grounded at the mount.  If the bar is mounted through rubber mounts, then you will have to run a ground wire to the bar or individual lights.  You will switch the hot trigger of your relay with all of the lights that we sell.  We suggest switching your hot trigger lead in most situations.
   
• You can also use one of our Universal Wiring and Relay Kits for Controlling Your Auxiliary Lights.  This is a complete kit with virtually everything you need with a wiring harness already put together.  For the money, this is a pretty good way to go.
   
• Heat shrink  to cover up any soldered connections or to tidy up wires is the way to go.  Dressing up wires and being careful to run them in a manner where they will be hidden and tie wrapped properly will enhance  your installation.  Some Chrome Cable Covering will also give you a professional custom look.  It just take a few minutes to plan the job and draw the wiring out. 
   
• An inexpensive Volt Meter or some other way to verify voltage and switch closure is a must.  A Crimping Tool and Solder Gun are also needed, depending on what direction you take.  Radio Shack is the easiest and cheapest place to pick up those items.  Soldered connections are always a better way to go when making your splices or connections.
   
• Always install an inline fuse on your supply circuit from your battery or use an Accessory Fuse block which is already fused.

For a finished look install some Light Visors (click here for instructions) and finish off the wiring with some available Chrome Cable Covering.

Typical wiring shown using a relay.   Using a Relay:  The switch or control power only needs to supply a small amount of current to trigger your relay (86).  Put a switch in series with the (86) trigger input to be able to turn the lights on and off.   Hook up heavier wire thru a fuse directly from the battery or Accessory Fuse Panel to the (in terminal) 30/51 and then to your lights.  You are now running all of your current through the relay contact instead of a switch which may not be able to handle the load, and possibly burn out.   Always use a relay or smart switch with the 45 watt or higher Halogen Lights.

Motorcycle Headlight and Auxiliary Light Visor installation instructions
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